Rain takes center stage at the New Orleans Jazz Fest, but the music mostly played on

Rain, lightning and low-rumbling thunder literally stole the show at the New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Festival’s second weekend.

Rhiannon Giddens

It rained early and often and the festival grounds became a good place to launch a canoe, but not a place to enjoy music. Stevie Wonder’s much-anticipated show never even started – the festival pulled the plug on all stages – leaving Wonder with a bullhorn leading the survivors in a soggy version of Purple Rain.

Instead of festing, folks like me took to the nightclubs for music and there was no shortage. I caught great sets by Tab Benoit, Sonny Landreth and Bonerama (my new favorite band!) at the Rock ‘n Bowl. And along Frenchman Street I caught Jon Cleary and his band doing an in-store show at Louisiana Music Factory. Also loved Tuba Skinny, doing old time jazz for hipsters, at DBA and lots more.

Several more live music clubs are opening along Frenchman, with live music starting around 6 and sometimes earlier. I did a couple of music crawls early and heard lots of good bands and still had time for a nice dinner in NOLA. The best new club – which may only be new to me – is BMC, on the French Quarter side of Esplanade. Caught two sets by Snake and the Charmers – not sure about the name – but they minded the great tunes of Ray Charles and other horn bands from the 40s and 50s – and even threw in a swinging version of the I Dream of Jeannie theme song.

Snake and the Charmers at BMC

As for Jazz Fest, I had arrived early and caught the first weekend – which which was sunny with low humidity – perfect jazz fest weather.

Saw great sets by Sharon Jones and the Dap Kings and Rhiannon Giddens, who was backed by her former Carolina Chocolate Drops mates, and a handful of other great players. She was the highlight for me.

And I have to give a great shout-out to Bria Skonberg – the trumper who played a sold-out show in the Side Door last February. She was at Jazz Fest and Sung Harbor. I caught the jazz fest set. Bria was great and she was backed by her band, which I hadn’t heard before. She mines the classic music of New Orleans jazz and makes it sound new. She’ll be back at the Side Door for sure.

More to come on Jazz Fest and NOLA. Stay tuned.